Choosing the Right Red (Hair Color)

Spring is almost here and for many the new season represents an opportunity to experiment with color - typically a shade of Red. Before you run out to your local beauty supply store and pick up a box off the shelf, it is important to understand a few hair color basics.

Permanent Vs. Semi-Permanent Color

Permanent color contains an oxidizer (such as hydrogen peroxide) and ammonia. The purpose of these chemicals is to open the cuticles and lift the natural color from your strands so that the color you desire can be deposited. Semi-Permanent color on the other hand does not contain bleach or ammonia which means the color is not deposited within the cuticle layer, but outside and on top of your natural hair color. 

When it comes to the decision to color your hair red your natural hair color will make a big difference in the end result when using a semi-permanent vs. a permanent color. To further clarify the idea take a red crayon and make a mark on a black sheet of construction paper. The red mark is only visible from certain angles where light is adequately reflected (as with semi permanent color on dark hair). Now take a white sheet of paper and make a mark with a red crayon; the red mark is clearly visible from all angles (as with permanent color).

Skin Tone & Personality

Skin tone and personality should play an important role in the shade of red you choose. For example, I have warm undertones to my skin and my stylist has done a variation of red shades with my hair throughout the years. I have had Copper, Auburn and even Red Blonde just to name a few. One thing my stylist keeps in mind is my personality when choosing a shade, she knows that I am quite reserved so although I may be able to pull it off in regards to skin tone, a Fire-y Red may not suite me.

At Home vs. Professional Color

I have yet to experiment with at-home color but know several women who have successfully colored their tresses at home. Color can be done safely at home, but I would caution against simply going into the store and picking up a box. Do you research first and narrow down the brand and shade prior to entering the store. Once you are in store look for a box in your brand of choice showing a model containing similar skin tone. This will give you an idea of what you can expect the color to look like on you. 

I prefer to have my color done professionally simply because I fear damage and realize that box color does not always give you the end results you are looking for. Most professionals have an understanding of what colors to mix or intensifiers to add to create the end result you want without causing brassiness and/or damage.

Maintenance

Red hair is notorious for fading quickly, almost after the first shampoo. As a result it is important to use shampoos and conditioners specifically formulated to maintain color vibrancy. As with all hair dyes dryness is a natural by-product so be prepared to deep condition religiously. Hot oil treatments, hair masks, and reconstructors are great ways to make sure your hair's moisture levels remain optimal.

I am having my hair colored in about 3 weeks (approximately 4 weeks post relaxer) and I have already discussed the above topics with my stylist. I showed her a picture of the shade of red I wanted and her initial answer to my request for color was no. We had discussed my current hair goals and she indicated she would not do anything that might impede my progress. When I went back for my relaxer last weekend she told me she had given my request some thought and suggested we do a darker shade of red using a low-volume (20) developer to give me some color but prevent damage. She then indicated that if I still wanted a lighter shade we could gradually lighten the hair over time, each time using a low-volume developer to prevent damage.

How do you decide on hair color?