Relaxer Talk: The Two Most Critical Stages of Your Relaxer Stretch

The breakage mishap I suffered during my last relaxer as well as my recent struggles with stretching have lead me to think critically about the different stages of the post-relaxer stretch. 

The relaxer process is inherently damaging and weakens our strands with every application. We try to mitigate the harsh affects of the relaxer process by doing mid-step protein treatments and deep conditioning; adding oil to our relaxers and coating our the length of our strands prior to applying the chemical. These steps are important to prevent damage on relaxer day, but what about the weeks that follow? I have discovered two stages of the post-relaxer phase during which my hair is the most susceptible to breakage and thereby requires a bit more TLC to stay healthy.

1 - 2 Weeks Post Relaxer - Dry Hair

Hot Oil Pre-Poo
Pre-poo-ing is something I do with every wash but right after a relaxer I do a special hot-oil treatment with olive oil rather than my usual Hot Six Oil application. Heating up the olive oil and sitting beneath my hooded dryer for 30-45 minutes prior to shampooing helps to both soften and moisturize my hair and keep it from feeling stripped after the shampoo process.

Shampoo
I find my hair to be a bit dry right after relaxing and it usually takes a few shampoo sessions before it feels normal again. During this time I like to use a sulfate-free moisturizing shampoo to help replenish the moisture I lost during the relaxer process.

Conditioning
Under normal conditions I like to use a mild protein treatment followed by a moisturizing conditioner during each wash; however, since my hair is dry after the relaxer process I eliminate the protein and focus on moisture. Once my hair returns to normal I re-incorporate protein into my regimen.

12-14 Weeks Post Relaxer - Increased shedding & tangling

Shampoo
Although I shoot for long stretches I find that after 13 weeks my hair becomes increasingly difficult to handle and sheds and tangles like crazy. After week 12 I switch to a sulfate shampoo (or sulfate free) that contains Keratin due to the fiber's ability to reduce frizz and tangles while leaving the hair smooth and strong.

Conditioning
I like to up the ante on my conditioning treatments and alternate between hot oil treatments (after shampooing) and moisturizing deep conditioners; I also switch from mild protein treatments to stronger treatments. The protein relaxes my new growth tremendously, strengthens the line of demarcation to prevent breakage, and creates a smoother finished result.

Often we put so much focus on the relaxer process itself that we lose sight of the changes in our hair's needs during our relaxer stretch. I am willing to bet that for most women damage happens not during the relaxer process but in the weeks that follow.

When is your hair most fragile?